It took six decades, but my husband can finally check that box – the one to visit all 50 states. And, what a fitting finale — The Last Frontier!
My husband and
I recently returned from Gustavus, Alaska … gateway to Glacier Bay National
Park. The area is
a veritable playground for some of nature’s most awe-inspiring creations. Glacier
Bay is home to some of the most active tidewater glaciers on the planet. It
didn’t disappoint. The thunderous crack and subsequent calving of icebergs from
Margerie Glacier was breathtaking—if not a little unsettling—as shards of
ice crashed into the bay causing huge wakes.
Because of its location in the Inside Passage,
Glacier Bay is at the convergence of several waterways, which makes for great
fishing – not only for anglers – but for whales. Humpbacks migrating from Hawaii embark on a
feeding frenzy every summer. We watched in utter raptness and delight as whales
suddenly appeared out of the water with mouth agape gulping fish, slapping
their fins, undulating their gargantuan bodies and flipping their flukes (tails)
… or simply spouting. On one excursion, our guides were even a bit nervous when
one humpback was showing off … a mere fifty yards from our kayaks!
There is no
end to the wildlife; we saw bear, mountain goats, porpoises, sea lions (my
husband battled a very determined one while reeling in a 42-inch halibut),
otters, puffins, various other birds, bald eagles (too many to count), moose …
well, at least we saw moose tracks!
Glacier Bay was all glacier and no bay just
250 years ago, but ice has continually receded to reveal this majestic natural
wonderland and the charming town of Gustavus, a uniquely beautiful place that’s
just plain … unique. The world’s only petroleum museum is there located inside
a charming 1950’s style gas station. The people are friendly – waving as they
pass – and honorable, too. You can play
golf and purchase elegant earthenware all on the honor system. Simply place
your money in a jar.
We stayed at
Glacier Bay Country Inn, where hospitality is taken to a new level. It’s more
luxury than rustic with a theater room, library and hot tub. The proprietors
are particularly solicitous and set up day trips, prepared our halibut for
travel and fed us like royalty. The resident gourmet chef prepares sumptuous (fresh)
seafood dishes, homemade breads, creative soups and salads … and, oh, what
crème brulee’!
Grab a bike
at Glacier Bay Country Inn for a spin to town or the beach. Hike the
surrounding mountains or rainforest; they’re mystical, magical and dripping with
moss. The forest floor is a spongy four-inch thick moss carpet. One of the more popular hikes is a
well-traveled trail that’s not only shrouded in moss, but mystery.
On a snowy
November night in 1957, several members of the Air National Guard were
returning home for the holidays when their small twin-engine plane crashed in
some trees at the outskirts of town. The wreckage remains today—untouched,
guarded by century old hemlock trees and lush vegetation. It’s an
emotion-evoking quarter mile stroll back in time.
There is no
shortage of adventures—recreational, scenic or culinary—in Gustavus, Alaska.
The fishing, kayaking, whale watching, beachcombing, hiking, exploring,
feasting or curling up with a good book overlooking a flower-filled meadow will
keep any traveler entertained and satisfied for days.
The sixty-year
wait was worth it!
glacierbayalaska.com
(800) 628-0912
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